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THE CAIQUE could have been any sponge-diving boat out of Kalymnos. Its deck was heaped with gunnysacks of sponges, boxes of provisions, drums of diesel fuel; its shrouds were a ragtag of patched dive suits, drying laundry, faded bandanas: a typical Aegean working boat.

On a low hill overlooking the park of the ancient Agora stands a building that any guidebook will tell you is the best preserved temple in Greece.