This is the Balkans

CONSTANTINE Karamanlis had two goals when he again laid eyes on Greece from the ramp of the French Presidential plane which brought him back to Athens on July 23, 1974. The first was to revise the Constitution of 1952. The second was to disengage the country from what many considered to be the suffocating embrace of the U.S.A.

Does History Repeat Itself?

WE were interested to see the ‘For Sale’ sign go down in front of the house of a determinedly royalist family in Kifissia a few weeks ago, imagining that the real estate slump was over and that some democracy-loving shipowner had actually paid the asking price of 10,000,000 drachmas a stremma (a quarter of an acre).

Feathered Friends

THERE IS a saying amongst Greeks that in June the swallows return — and by swallows they mean the foreign tourists. Indeed they come punctually each year in great flocks, clustering on beaches, perching on crumbling old columns, pecking at the local specialties and fluttering through museums in great droves.

The Hill of the Nymphs

The Feast of St. Marina will be celebrated once again on July 17 with a fair or panigiri atthe Church ofAgia Marina on the eastern slope of the Hill of the Nymphs, opposite the Acropolis, just below the Observatory.

The Easter Week on Mount Athos

ALL THAT my companion and I had for sustenance on the road to Iviron was a quarter kilo of dried peaches. Chewing our way down towards the sea, we encountered an old gentleman on his fourth annual pilgrimage through the religious world of Mount Athos. From behind his bushy white moustache came these words of encouragement: ‘Be in time for the monastery’s Good Friday vigil tonight; you will witness the Miracle of the Kandili.’

That Paradox in Halandri

THE VIEW of the grounds from the Agia Paraskevi Road is unimpressive. A seemingly disordered collection of low-level buildings is scattered behind a long gravel parking lot. There is little hint of vegetation. If you happen to pass by while classes are in session, the buildings seem empty of any human activity.

Where Pythia Left Off

HIGH UP on the southern slopes of Mount Parnassus, thousands of faithful flocked in ancient times to visit the colonnaded temple of Apollo at Delphi, some of them to consult the Oracle. Thousands of tourists flock to the same site today to admire the ancient ruins, which for centuries lay buried and forgotten.